Giant Prawn Thermidor
A thermidor made the orthodox way, with nothing modernised for the sake of it. What makes it his is the prawn — deep-sea and wild-caught, a decision taken well before the kitchen.
Behind a discreet entrance on Jalan Maharajalela, away from the districts Kuala Lumpur files its restaurants into, Café Café is a modern French dining room that most people walk past without knowing.
What is behind it is a modern French dining room — and the kitchen of Chef Tyrell Joon, who runs it. Everything that follows is about how he got here, and what he cooks now that he has.
At the heart of the restaurant is Chef Tyrell Joon, whose speciality is classical French technique elevated with a modern, deliberate kind of refinement.
I want every dish to feel refined but still comforting — something guests will remember long after they leave the restaurant.
Chef Tyrell Joon
Chef Tyrell is from Lenggong, in Perak. He built his reputation over eleven years inside Singapore's Les Amis Group, rising from Sous Chef to Head Chef and working across the group's range: the three-MICHELIN-starred Les Amis, the fine-dining room at Au Jardin, and high-end Italian at La Strada.
He sharpened it further at Iggy's Singapore, which holds a MICHELIN star, and then spent time working across China and Indonesia before returning home to take this kitchen.
What that produces on the plate is a cook who trusts the foundations. Premium produce, sauces made properly, presentation that is considered rather than decorated — and the occasional turn that reflects a Malaysian upbringing behind an entirely French training.
A thermidor made the orthodox way, with nothing modernised for the sake of it. What makes it his is the prawn — deep-sea and wild-caught, a decision taken well before the kitchen.
Two cuts of the same animal, finished two different ways and sent out on one plate: two techniques and two timings for a single order. Eleven years in French kitchens is what makes that seem reasonable.
Tuesday to Sunday, 6pm until 11pm. Closed Mondays.